
“My life has no geographic or political boundaries,” says Clint Wilkinson. “Just because people are on holiday in this archipelago currently known as Japan, doesn’t mean that they have to eat sushi and yakitori.”
Wilkinson, from the mid-northern lower central tablelands of New South Wales, is sitting in his latest project, a fusion cafe in impossibly hip Shimokitazawa. The Knobsack (for that is its name) sits just off the junction of two funky alleyways between a shop selling loophole drugs and another shop selling all kinds of shit that you don’t need. The Knobsack is the main attraction though, just a quick glance at the menu results in an involuntary quivering in the loins, and that’s completely understandable.

“You’ll find that everything we dish up here comes from sustainably sourced ingredients,” boasts Wilkinson. “Our customers come for the coffee which is lovingly roasted from Indonesian coffee beans. So, they come for the coffee, but stay for the food. We don’t hide the flavours here – we elevate them. From our smoke kissed steak to our roasted goat which is faithfully cooked in accordance with a Moroccan family’s handwritten recipe, our menu is something which people marvel over.”
The early news is good; customer numbers are up and the day-to-day running of the business are smoother than one of the malt shakes on offer. “Obviously, we work closely with our suppliers although at this point I’d rather not give any one of them particular praise,” says the obligatorily facially-haired veteran of the inner-city Sydney cafe scene. “I think across the local area we’re doing a lot of things, some of the impressive moves made by the local business community and the city government show that we’re all making good steps forward. I think we’ve got a lot of work to do and we actively look forward to participating in future conversations, provided that my voice is the loudest in the room.”

“Right now, however, we need to keep the momentum going and stay focused on sustained improvement,” explains Wilkinson as he rubs one of the characters on his heavily tattooed forearm, perhaps in a bid to elicit praise from me. “As far as our local business associates are concerned, we’re talking about sharing granular ideas and nurturing common threads, no matter how small they may be. I believe in building on the base, tapping into undiscovered trends, and moving forward in a positive way. Incremental change and duplicating positive responses have always been important to me, as you never know what the ramifications could be in the long run. I don’t want to be accused of being pie in the sky, but it doesn’t hurt to dream a little. That’s what they say in all those books. Believe me, I’ve read ‘em all.”
Bringing compassion, consideration, and long-term broad-minded thoughtfulness to business can be hard at times, but Wilkinson still manages to keep a handle on things. His innate cool can be seen through such things as his Aboriginal flag on the wall, his 1970s vinyl collection, and his vast wardrobe of Okinawan shirts. “They’re actually called Kariyushi shirts,” he asserts. “Kariyushi means “harmonious” or “happy occasion” in the Ryukyu language. It’s a quite a versatile word, when you think about it. Don’t judge their language though. If they want to have a word that can mean two things which aren’t really the same, then that’s part of the beauty and mystique that some westerner like you will never fully understand. I like to think of The Knobsack as a conduit for these cultural concepts. Coming here to this part of Tokyo invariable becomes an educational experience for many of our ignorant cashed-up customers.”

Wilkinson grew up in a theatre, where from childhood he learned the importance of fostering spaces where connections are made. He understands the vital role a cafe can potentially play in a community. “For the kind of people who read Tom Clancy books or wear smart watches, a cafe is just a place to get a hot beverage. But, for the romantics, the gypsies, and the sophisticates, it’s a space to absorb knowledge and exchange culture. It’s a social hive that doesn’t just defy social diversity, it embraces it and thrives on it.”
Deflecting away from the reasons that led to the closure of his cafe in Sydney and his hasty move to Tokyo, Wilkinson gushes over the attractions of his new abode. “Tokyo sucks you in. It’s a city of adventure. I don’t get much time off, but when I do get away from The Knobsack, I like to jump into a Mari Cart or go to Asakusa for a rickshaw ride. I’m a sucker for the school classroom experience too when I put on the school uniform and learn how to do origami or shodo with other westerners. What else do I get into…? Let’s see… Oh! Those Ueno rub ’n’ tugs are always a joy. You can even get a cheeky walnut if you get an attentive server. I love checking out the maid cafes and owl cafes, too. I don’t consider them competition as we cater to different markets. They’re just all part of the tapestry of Tokyo, and I consider The Knobsack to be a part of that too, just in a much more spiritual and artistic way.”
























































